By Dean Kinsley and Jimmy Manos from South Carolina
7/14/2001 - Dean
Jimmy and I are in Everett ready (?) to begin the ride. As I feared, many of the other riders seem to be ultra-marathon types; there was lots of talk at the rider meeting of Paris-Brest-Paris, double-centuries and other absurdities. I expect lots of solo riders in this bunch but we shall see. I think we will make it although at the rider's meeting there was talk of hail, tornadoes, and several horrors. Probably warm clothes are called for. We are off (shortly).
7/14/2001 - Jimmy
Actually its 26 days Ward,but who's counting. We are in Everett, the start town. Had rider meeting, going over routes(lots of left turns and things) and a huge dinner(one of two we don't have to pay for) Dean and I were roomed together(those who know me, won't be long before I annoy the heck out of him and he's asking for another roomate. Not much else to say. Here from us tomorrow. Day 1 Jimmy
7/15/2001 - Dean
We left this morning on what might be considered a typical Northwest day; it was cold and it was raining. It was 50 degrees when we left at 6:30 AM and was lightly drizzling. Unfortunately the drizzle became progressively harder and rain continued to the top of Stephens Pass (the highest point on the Old Cascade Highway) at mile 70. Ugh! I arrived at the Pass at 11:30 and began a long descent. The descent was the worst and scariest part of the ride. It was freezing! My hands were so cold I couldn't shift, the road was slick, the surface was bad, and there was a terrifying crosswind. I ordinarily like going downhill. Not this time. Nevertheless, I made it to the bottom without mishap. Astonishing! It became progressively warmer but the wind remained tough. Despite all, I and everyone else made it to Wenatche (mile 125) feeling pretty good overall. I was a mess, the bike appeared to be rubble but we both cleaned up about as well as can be hoped. Tomorrow is a long day, 161 miles with lots of climbing. I await developments.
Overall, so far the ride is proving to be a good one; well organized, companionable riders, good and plentiful food and drink. For Adrian, James, and other exercise phisiochemists: you might be interested to learn that Lon Haldeman (this big RAAM guy) puts a scoop of Maltodetrin in his drinks which gives a 200 or so calorie boost to your on-bike rides. It may be something you want to try with your Kool-Aid on long, tough rides.
With luck, I will have thrilling, compelling things to report tomorrow.
7/15/2001 - Jimmy
Well first off it was raining and 49 degrees for the start. It rained the first 70 miles approximately to the top of Stevens Pass in the Cascades. We started the gradual climbing around mile 55. Between 60-68 I'm doing a blistering 11-13 mph and below ten the last mile in (I suck). Well you already know that. Anyway the descent was freezing and windy. Great for me, yeah because I'm so good at that. Any way after lunch it was warm and beautiful as opposed to cold and beautiful. Cool part Dean and I rode the last 40 in together after lunch (he dogged me). Kayakers on the river parallel to us having a great time shooting the rapids (although we didn't actually see that part), they had to, there was no way not too. Nothing eventful after that. Not alot of women to admire yet, though some are riding several sections. Oh I was wearing arm warmers, leg warmers, vest and undershirt besides regular attire. Woody had on just shorts and Teva sandals with the cleats, no socks. I was freezing, couldn't feel fingers thru 70. Man! Jimmy
7/16/2001 - Dean
Yesterday the principal themes in our riding playlet were cold and rain. Today the dominant feature was WIND! Leaving the cozy confines of apple valley (Wenatchee) we moved into the high desert where the winds evidently blow constantly and with great enthusiasm. Today was a long day, 161 miles, which was made longer by the fact that a large group of us took a variety of wrong turns leaving Wenatchee so we idiotically made a hard ride harder. 161 miles is gruelling under any circumstances but constant wind did not help. I need hardly mention that at no point was it at our back (or, as our Australian comrade said it would be nice if just once the wind blew up his clacker - a great Aussieism). Yet, it was interesting to see the high wheat country which stretches all across the upper NW. Tomorrow is a "rest day", only 90 miles. We depart from Spokane and end up in Sand Point, Idaho. We are all looking forward to arriving earlier tomorrow,taking a nap, and generally beginning to recover for the rest of the ride. I hope it works out that way.
7/16/2001 - Jimmy
The most interesting thing that happened to me today occurred at mile 110. Dean and I are cruising along and my 400 mile old rear tire rips open on the sidewall. I have to hitch to the next sag stop, 18 miles away. The only vehicle to stop is a jeep with no top and no room. So I have to sit in the back halfway turned unseatbelted with my bike hanging out the back. Unsafe and impolite. As we passed all the the riders who stopped to check on me (none of which had a spare tire) I couldn't wave back because doing so would have meant dropping my bike onto the highway at 60 mph. On a lighter note I found the Johnny Cash CD playing on the drivers stereo to be pretty good. Now Jaimie I guess I really remind you of your dad. Jimmy
7/19/2001 - Dean
After two days of no reports the time has come to check in. Tuesday and Wednesday were rest days (in a manner of speaking). On Tuesday we went 86 miles from Spokane, Wa. to Sand Point Idaho and Wednesday about 80 miles to Thompson Falls, Montana. After the first two days these were extraordinarily leisurely and tranquil. Besides, the weather and the scenery were both perfect. Sand Point is a tiny Yuppie oasis near the Canadian border. On a deck over the Albil River we had a great lunch in a very froufrou vegetarian resturant. After lattes and biscotti in an oh so trendy coffee lounge we returned to the hotel to a small pizza party to watch the 10th stage of the tour (Lance up Alpe duez- spelled incorrectly I am certain). By contrast, in Thompson Falls we stayed a rustic lodge on the Clark Fork River that was several miles out of town; a gentle restful evening. In all on both days, the riding was good; at times spirited and on other occasions nothing more that chatty jaunts. Throughout the countryside was what has been educated to expect of the region; mountainous grandure, high plains, and spectacular wildlife including bald eagles; nesting osprey, and others. In all it was fine.
Today was not so fine. It was not a long day; 106 miles to Missoula, Montana. There were several problems however. In the group I was riding with were numerous flats making the trek long and discontinuous. The road surfaces were also varied; there was a 12 mile dirt and gravel road (not even slightly pleasant) and a 6 mile stint on Interstate 90 (scary). Worst of all one of the riders was hit by the mirror of motor home. She is a very nice woman and a very good rider from Holland. I did not see the accident but she was airlifted out by helicopter to a trauma center. The injury was, evidently, better than might be expected given what happened. She has no internal bleeding and she should be alright. It is, however, a horrifying event and the sort that is all too common. Those motor homes are generally menacing and this time the menace was very real. We are all very hopeful that she is well.
We have now completed five days. Various aches and pains are now common. As for me, I have a minor achilles tendon problem. I am going easy, taping, and taking lots of drugs. With luck, this will pass. Tomorrow is 134 miles to Butte, Montana. I believe we cross the continental divide in this section although I generally do not like to enquire too closely of these kinds of matters, the intelligence usually does little more than give me the heebie jeebies.
7/20/2001 - Dean
Today was 134 miles from Missoula to Butte, Montana with about 6,000 feet of climbing. The middle 75 miles of the ride were glorious. It was clear and warm and we were treated to mile after mile of Montana grandeur. At mile 84 was a six mile climb to Anaconda Pass overlooking the famous mining town of Anaconda. The climb was steep but the surface was good and the views on the way were wonderful. On the top was a high mountain lake, Georgetown Lake which was exquisite. This area is where the rockies course through Montana. They are not big here but are beautiful. From Georgetown Lake there was a six mile gentle descent into the town of Anaconda. To make matters better still the wind was at our back the entire way. One could not help but feel like Hercules. Magical.
If the middle 75 miles were wonderful the first 20 and the last 20 were anything but wonderful. It was very cold and raining when we left. To make matters worse we rode 17 miles on Interstate 90 (legal in Montana). It was horrible. The usual debris on the shoulder and the spray from passing vehicles made it less that pleasant. Unsurprisingly, there were several people who flatted including me. Yuck. In the last 20 miles of the ride a rain storm blew up and made everyone miserable yet again. And again were were on the interstate, this time 13 miles into Butte. The road was graded for a long way with the corrogations that accompany such construction. It was tooth jarring and mind numbing. Again, there were a variety of flats including one for me. Entering Butte were five interstate bridges without shoulders which, needless to say was a potentially scarifying experience. Nevertheless, we are made it in in one piece; sodden and shaken to be sure but whole.
The riders in this group are very good. It is overall a fast group. There are some who are primarily solo riders but Jimmy and I have a group of about 15-18 riders from which we draw riding partners and there is much switching off over the course of a day. There are lots of very fast pace lines but also pleasant, leisurely chat sessions. In all, it is working out well.
The woman who was injured yesterday is doing well. She had a subdural hematoma which was successfully drained and she is evidently recovering well. There is talk of prosecuting the driver of the vehicle with some form of reckless endangerment. There were a number of witnesses and the driver had buzzed several of them. Overall, this is about the best outcome that we could reasonably expect from this horrifying event.
Tomorrow is another relatively short day (about 102 miles). We will be paying for these leisurely jaunts soon with numerous punishing 150 miles drags. I can hardly wait.
7/21/2001 - Dean
Today was Day 7 from Butte to Bozeman, Montana, about 102 miles. To date we have covered about 815 miles. Since we have only had 3 days substantially over 100 our 134 mile projected average is a bit short.
We are now in Bozeman. It is hot and clear. Today was quite uneventful, lovely but uneventful. Eight miles out of Butte we began a 6 mile climb up to the Western Continental Divide. The climb was not tough but beautiful. After the climb was a very long sweeping descent that was fast and fun. From there it was windy high plans for the most part. But at mile 60 we turned onto Highway 84 which followed the Madison River, a swift running river that people from all over came to fish and tube down the river. From our point of view equally pleasant was the fact that the wind was at our back for the next 25 miles. It was beautiful and fun.
We got in rather early today. The agenda is to get to bed early for a change. While I haven't had any problems with food or with hydration like most people on the ride seem to feel we need to get to bed earlier, if I don't I will poop out sooner or later.
7/21/2001 - Jimmy
Another beautiful day in Montana. Windy, hot, hilly, and did I say windy. It is quite beautiful though. Except for the mode of transportation it would seem like a regular vacation. Going through fabulous countryside and eating like pigs. It is like a rolling picnic out here. Although I know we need it I'm going to come back even fatter than I already was. The terrain has been rough as well. Twelve miles of dirt road on one stretch as well as several on I-90 (its legal out here, as well as the only option sometimes. Nothing makes you feel safer than car after car passing you at 75-85 mph. Lots of interesting people to tell about. So hopefully next time I will have the "Rider Profile" done. Names will be changed to protect the writer from getting his ass kicked. Stay tuned for Team Wisconsin, the meticulous doctor and the self described hearthrob on wheels. Jimmy
7/25/2001 - Dean
After several days of non-reporting, the time has come to check in. We have gone from Bozeman to Columbus, MT (the center of platinum and palladium mining) to Cody, Wyoming (a spectacular day in which the transition from verdant rolling Montana hills to barren, brown high desert of Wyoming was stark. Out of the picturesque town of Red Lodge Montana we climbed a small hill on top of which to the north you could see 100s of miles of rolling Montana countryside. Turning a corner looking to the south was 100s of miles of desolate Wyoming. The transition could not have been more sudden or dramatic.) From Cody (a dumpy little, scruffy place) we had a 150 mile day to Sheridan, Wyoming. What was distinctive about this day was the need to cross the majestic Big Horm Mountains. The climbing was grueling; it began with a four mile 4% prologue directly into the wind (25 MPH) then turn upward to climb for 10 miles with grades from 8-12%. It was extraordinarly exhausting. We crossed a pass at 10,000 and wobbled across the top for 10 miles and then began a thrilling 11 mile descent. The Big Horns are like a vertical spine running north/south through central Wyoming and they cannot be avoided. So we struggled over. It was a long day. Today we ended up in Gillette, Wyoming the center of the famous Powder River Basin, the home of the largest most productive coal mines in America. Tomorrow it is a long 160 mile day to Rapid City, SD. We pass near Mt. Rushmore and other sights. I am afraid however that with 160 miles to do we will not do much sightseeing.
The trip continues to go well. Most folks, including me, have a variety of aches and pains but we are in for the long haul and I expect everyone will make it fine.
7/26/2001 - Dean
Today was extremely long and even more grueling. We left Gillette, Wyoming (which one local informed me was the "energy capital of America") at 6:00 AM heading to Rapid City, SD. We were greeted with 94 miles of stiff wind in our faces. It was miserable and exhausting. Besides there was the now usual 15 miles of dirt roads with highway construction going on. That meant swirling dust and dirt to go with the headwind. At mile 89 we entered South Dakota and shortly thereafter began to climb into the Black Hills. Thunder storms and possible tornadoes were predicted for Rapid City but they hit as most of us entered Mt. Rushmore national park. Getting to the park and the mountain faces involved 10 miles of climbing into worsening rain and wind. By the top the wind was howling from every direction. Frankly, I was not terribly keen to see the faces of Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln, and T. Roosevelt. My first priortiy and that of everyone else was to avoid being blown off the mountain as we descended out of the park. Despite the harrowing events (wind, storms, and park traffic) we all managed to arrive in Rapid City without incident. It was 160 miles and a very long and exhausting day. Tomorrow is not too different - 150 to Murdo, SD. With luck the wind will be at our back. I hope to avoid another 5:45 arrival. Yuck!
7/29/2001 - Dean
If today is the 29th we must be in Minnesota? Let me check. Yup! Worthington, Minnesota. When last I wrote it was the 26th after a horrific day into Rapid City, South Dakota. 100 miles of headwinds, thunder storms and every other imaginable horror. In retrospect, it was a demoralizing day. Everyone was down including me. The following day into Murdo, SD was everything the previous one was not: the sky was clear, bright, and high, the winds were favorable, and the scenery was varied and interesting. 50 of the first 75 we skirted the Badlands and at mile 80 entered the Badlands National Park. It is a spooky and magical place. Dark, lumpish stone structures cover the landscape and there is a generally forbidding look to the who area. It was interesting to see and to ride through. Although it was another long day (150 miles) it was generally a pleasant recovery day (both mental and physical recovery). The next two day, from Murdo to Mitchell, SD and from Mitchell to Worthington, Minnesota have been nearly identical. Both were 140 miles, both went through countryside marked by a stunning sameness (everywhere corn, soybeans, and gently rolling green hills), and both days were marked by tough winds (20 MPH) coming from the south or from the right (that made for two long days of efforts to get into and stay into appropriate echelons, which is no easy task for 140 miles). Yesterday we crossed the Missouri River in Chamberlain, South Dakota. While the two sides of the river looked essentially the same I felt that I had crossed some sort of divide - out of the West into the Midwest. Some sort of bridge has been crossed. That is all the more so since yesterday at mile 100.9 we crossed the halfway point of the trip. Its all down hill from here.
7/30/2001 - Dean
Today was a repeat of the past two days; topography was identical, corn and soybeans everywhere, and the wind from the south at 20-25 MPH. To enhance the experience it was in the mid 90s today with matching humidity. In short, it was a miserably hard day. We have landed in Austin, Minnesota (the Spam capital of the world - ie the center of production) and tomorrow on to Wisconsin, via Iowa. We go in a generally southern direction so everyone is hoping against hope for a change in wind direction. We do so, however, without optimism.
8/1/2001 - The Dean
Although yesterday was eventful I failed to report: I had to do laundry. The fact is that on an event of this sort there are only three essential non-bike activities: drinking (hydrating, for the cognescenti), eating, and resting. Everything has to take a number and stand in line. Yesterday, the window closed with no place for writing.
Yesterday we left Austin, MN (I know many are wondering so I must confess that, to my knowledge, no one in our group went to the Spam Musuem) heading for Wisconsin. At first it continued to be the flat soy bean and corn country we had come to know and loathe. At mile 48 we entered Iowa and by mile 100 the look of the land began to change. By Decorah, Iowa (the home of Luther College) we had entered what are know as the Iowa Alps. The bumps of granite are not really like the alps but there was a markedly different look to the countryside nevertheless. There were trees! In general the area was attractive and pleasant. We crossed the Mississipi River at Marquette, Iowa and entered Prairie de Chien, Wisconsin. Today it was another long day (150 miles) along the southern border of Wisconsin to Beloit. We traveled on rural farm roads almost the entire way. It was wonderously beautiful and the very picture of Americana and midwestern farm country. There were still lots of corn and soybean but the varying topography made it a pleasant day. For what it is worth I am growing sceptical about the notion that cows laying down signal rain's a'comin. I have seen 1000's of cows laying down, hundreds more just getting up or in the process of laying down (they are slow) over the last couple of weeks and have not seen a drop of rain. It has however been shockingly hot. Yesterday it was 98 with a heat index of 115. The Weather Channel was explicit: Don't even mow your lawn the weather reader said. We did not. In Plattsville, Wisconsin where we were this morning a professional football player died from heat exhaustion. Yet, we plug on. Yikes! Tomorrow 163 miles to Kanakee, Illinois. I have already heard wishful thinking that the wind will shift to the NW. We should be so lucky.
8/2/2001 - Dean
I am happy to report that I was the stage winner in today's long day (167 miles) from Beloit, Wisconsin to Kankakee, Illinois (a scabarous burg I am reluctant to say). I took off at 20 miles into the rain and very shortly found myself alone. I picked up another rider at lunch who had sagged up so he doesn't count. I had actually won an earlier stage but that didn't really count because I was essentially dragged along for 144 miles but the group known as Team Wisconsin - three powerful guys from the Milwaukee area. Since they didn't want to ride today I probably shouldn't count today either but I will.
Today was hard for a variety of reasons. First, it was the longest day so far and the longest day of the entire trip. 167 miles is never easy. Second, it rained for the first 75 miles of the day. Most of the time it didn't come down too hard but intermittently there were sheeting rains with thunder and lightening. I took cover for about 10 minutes but for the most part managed to survive. Still, riding in the raining is never wholly enjoyable. The worst part of the day was the announcement this morning that the Dutch woman who was riding safely on the shoulder of the road but was nevertheless struck by a careless and irresponsible RV driver outside of Missoula, Montana, died last night. Evidently, complications with the treatment led to liver failure and death enroute to Seattle for further tests and work. It is profoundly distressing and unbearably sad. It need and should not have happened.
For those interested in reports about the countryside what I can say with the greatest conviction is that it was all corn and soybeans (again!). I think I know what happens with all the corn but the miles and miles of soybeans (in state after state after state) requires further investigation.
The trip is winding down; on to Indiana tomorrow.
8/3/2001 - ?Dean
Another day another state. Today we are in Indiana, Wabash, Indiana specifically. The hotel we are staying in is immediately next door to the Belgian Draft Horse Corporation of America. Can you believe it? On the way to Wabash we passed through Mexico, Indiana, a suburb (of sorts) of Peru, Indiana which, I note in passing, bills itself as the "Circus Capital of America." As this claim struck me as ridiculously implausible I felt it necessary to closely question the natives. It turns out this refers to the "fact" that traveling circuses spend their off seasons in Peru. Why? I cannot imagine but it must be quite a sight. Small town Indiana packed to the doors with elephants, growling tigers, women in tutus, and men swallowing swords. What could be better? Indiana, like many of the previous places we have been seems to be packed with corn and soy beans but the land has a different look and feel. Fields are broken up by stands of trees and trees are everywhere more abundant. The ground water that makes it possible for trees to survive also makes the area hospitible for our SC friend, the mosquito. The presence of our little winged friends means the trip is almost over. Indeed, there is less than a week to go. Tomorrow it is into Ohio and the Eastern time zone. I hope I continue to hold up. Now I am pooped. Jimmy's knees are creaky but Woody plugs on strongly and indefatigably. If things continue in this fashion we will be back in a week. I am looking foward to it. 26 of this stuff is more than sufficient.
8/4/2001 - Dean
Today was a relatively easy rest day. It was 130 miles to Troy Ohio and nearly everyone had decided to take it easy in preparation for big and difficult days to come. We meandered through rural Ohio checking out Amish communities (Berne and Amishville) and generally having a nice, relaxing day. I couldn't help but be impressed by the contrast between the Amish families in their buggies, caps and severe clothing and the gaudy carnival of polyester clad cyclists rolling by. Tonight was a special treat at the Golden Corral for dinner. Steak buffet! We all made pigs of ourselves stoking up for the mountains to come. It was really an appalling spectacle. Yet, we cannot use the excuse of calorie deficit in the coming days. It is remarkable to contemplate that there are just five more days to go in this trip (with, I hasten to say, 650 miles and 25,000 feet of climbing). It has been fun but I will be glad when the evening of the ninth arrives.
8/6/2001 - Dean
Today we arrived in the EAST! We crossed the Ohio River at Parkersburg, WV at about 8:45 AM. Today was our last really long day - 170 to Elkins, WV. In all, it was hot hot, long, difficult day climbing through the Appalachians. We actually began to enter the Appalachians in the Hocking Hills before Athens, Ohio yesterday. Rolling along the roads in WV one is struck immediately with how very different the scenery is in this part of the country. Gone are the majestic panoramas of the West and the flat endless prairies of the plains. Traveling down back roads like Nutter Farm Road or Meat House Fork Road the landscape is close and intimate. While grand, Western vistas are a bit forbidding and not a little standoffish. But, in the Eastern mountains the land and its sights are close and enveloping. You can't help but feel part of the woods and land around which gives one a sense of tingly aliveness. Its good to be back.
Tomorrow its on to Virginia. It is a big climbing day to Harrisonburg but is only 100 miles. Piece of cake.
8/7/2001 - Dean
Into Virginia! It was a short day - 108 miles with 10,000 feet of climbing. There were four 8-10% climbs that were each 4-5 miles long in the first 75 miles. In all, it should not have been too tough but after 24 days and a week of days of 150-160 mile days most people avoided the attacking mode. We essentially went from ridge to ridge crossing from Elkins, WV to Harrisonburg, VA. The views from each ridge were beautiful and the rapid 4-5 mile descents afterwards were thrilling. Most everyone, and certainly me, are simply tired. I have stopped wearing my heart rate monitor as the numbers have become completely meaningless; threshold numbers have probably declined 30 BPM. In short, I am toast. Fortunately, there are only two more days to go and they should be relatively easy.
8/8/2001 - Dean
Today's ride from Harrisonburg to Ashland, VA (just north of Richmond) was generally uneventful. It was a relatively easy day; 127 miles with 4500 feet of climbing. There were a variety of conventional problems; dreadful heat, a few crazy and maddening drivers, a riding mate who had had tire troubles over the last several days had more (his rear tire blew up then when fixing it the new tube failed), and my feet hurt. Still and all it was a very nice day. We climbed to and crossed Skyline Drive, meandered through lovely sections of the Shenendoah Valley, were treated to a medley of Revolution and Civil War era place names, and sidled along lovely rivers and archetypal Virginia countryside. It was lovely. Also today was the penultimate day of the trip. Tomorrow is a cakewalk to lunch at the beach in Yorktown, VA and then back to Williamsburg. We are nearly done. I was rummaging through my stuff this evening and found, unsurprisingly, that I had acquired no souveniers, no mementos, no stuff. From the beginning this trip was, for me at least, about being and doing and not about getting and having. And it has been undertaken so. It has been a difficult and thrilling adventure. I am both glad and sorry it is just about over.
8/9/2001 - Dean
It's over! We rolled into Yorktown, on the Cheasapeak Bay, as a group at lunchtime. Trip crew had set up a finishline and the tone was fittingly celebratory. It was wonderful. The trip down from Ashland through Williamsburg and on to Yorktown was generally pleasant and lovely. Besides being a day of completion it was also a day of inversion. Lou, who had a kidney transplant only a year ago and who had had a difficult but courageous ride,roared through the first and on to the second sag stop first to meet his wife. Woody, who was the most dedicated tourist of the group over most of the ride, was the first to cross the finish line in Yorktown. Team Wisconsin, generally fast and off the front, dawdled and guffawed near the back with the rest of us. Despite complaints of hurt feet and tired legs it was throughout a jolly, happy ride to the beach.
At the evening banquet wrapping up the ride the organizers had kind things to say about everyone, the trip map was auctioned off ($3,150 to Matty Parker of Bethesda), and lots of photos were taken. In a way the banquet only emphasized the very distinctive quality of the trip itself. The presence of family members and friends served to reintegrate the riders back into conventional society because one of the essential characteristics of the ride was the profound separateness of the experience. Along the ride we created a separate, alternative reality set off from normal life, a reality with its own rules, rythmns, and personality. It was a kind of spell. The banquet broke the spell and reminded us of both what had been and what comes next. It was both happy and wistful.
Woody has done this sort of thing several times and expects to do another trip in the future. Jimmy and I think we will not. One rider on our trip had done 8 of these tours. Right now, I don't think I could handle a second one. For the moment, I am satisfied to think of the trip as a once in a lifetime experience. A good experience.