Oregon Trail Day 12

7/22/99

Larry's log:

What a difference a day makes! I was hurting toward the end of yesterday, but never would have known it today. The Weather Channel was calling for a SE wind (headwind). So, it looked like it could be a real grind. However, the wind started out NW and stayed that way for about 125 of our 162 miles!

Sixteen and a half miles after leaving the motel this morning, we were taking pictures at the Welcome to Nebraska sign. The first 20 or 30 miles into Nebraska were quite nice. There was a lot of farming, not just corn. It was flat enough so that at ground level or from any sort of a ridge, you could see quite a distance. I remember at one spot seeing numerous farms plus a couple of small towns. And there was a light mist or haze ahead which actually made the view more unique. At about mile 40 we rode through Scott's Bluff National Monument, which had some interesting rock formations.

Gering, a couple of miles beyond, was a neat, small town. As we entered town, we passed a farm and tractor museum. There were a lot of old tractors on the grounds, and I suspect more in the building. At one of the stoplights in town, someone leaned out of the Street Dept. truck that was next to me and asked if we were in a race. I told him, no, we were just bicycling across the country. The guy's eyes got real big and he threw his head back as if he had just been slapped. I think he was pretty much speechless, but managed to say, "Well, good luck!" as the light changed.

At about Mile 60, we passed Chimney Rock. This is a very distinctive formation that does look something like a chimney jutting up from the landscape. It is a distinctive monument on the Oregon Trail.

We were on US 385 about midway through the ride for maybe ten or 20 miles. I recognized this as a road that goes through Dalhart in the Texas Panhandle. Maybe we should have just stayed on it a few more days!

We did have a minor run-in with Nebraska's finest on the road today. About a dozen of us were riding side by side on the shoulder when a police car stopped us. He said he had been getting complaints about riders too far into the traffic lane. We had been passed by a few wide load vehicles carrying mobile home halves. Apparently, there was some sort of accident involving them. Anyway, the cop told us to ride single file and we said we would. I heard later that it was confirmed by the policeman that we could ride double file, and that whatever accident had occurred was the fault of the drivers. So, there.

Since we had a good tailwind, lunch was at about 10:30 am. Even considering our 6 am departure, this was early, especially if you consider that this time included stopping at two previous rest stops. After lunch, it seemed noticeably warmer. It had been about 60 this morning, and felt like it must have been 90 by now. I also think I noticed an increase in humidity, although later on the Weather Channel it looked like it wasn't anything about 30%.

The next 40 miles or so of tailwind were enjoyable. The scenery was pretty much farms and some gently rolling hills. But since the farms weren't mile after mile or corn, it stayed interesting enough. We were also riding alongside the railroad again. In Oregon and Idaho, it had been Union Pacific. In Wyoming and here, it is Burlington Northern. I know there have been some mergers in this industry, so they may now be one in the same.

At the last rest stop at 135 miles, rain was evident behind us, just over a hill. We had a gradual six mile climb ahead of us, and there was some wondering if we would make it to the top dry. However, the rain seemed to be moving perpendicular to us, and was staying behind, so I was hopeful we would. We did. After that, the rain seemed to be following us, but remaining parallel to us. So we did not get wet. To the left was a huge lake, Lake CW McConaughy, formed by the North Platte River, which we have followed for a couple of days. The lake appeared to be a good ten or 20 miles long.

Ogallala appears to be a nice, tidy Midwest community of about 5000. Rain did fall around dinner time, and afterwards we were treated to a double rainbow! At the local Dairy Queen, a local resident struck up a conversation with us. He must have recognized us as not living here. He grew up in this area, and has retired back here. I asked if the winters are rough, and he said there are at least a couple of days each month when the temperatures get up into the 60s. He said the primary industries here are agriculture, American Suzuki (?) and a company that automates radio broadcast stations (of all things). He said we missed a tornado that hit town two days earlier and damaged some houses. But, all in all, it seems like a pretty nice place, and the people are very friendly, just as you might expect in the Midwest.

By my calculations, 43 miles into tomorrow's ride, at the Olson Feed Lot, we should be half way through our 3470 mile trip. Although tomorrow's ride is "only" 115 miles, we're still starting out at 6. The forecast is again for a headwind, so we'll have to see what develops. And although it's only in the 90s, the TV stations are putting out the standard "don't exert yourself" advisories. But with the reduced amount of mileage, there should be a few hours for bumming around before dinner.

-- Larry Schwartz

View from the tandem:

Tough day, but we made it. Nothing to add.

Judith Jolly (and Daniel Schaaf)

Go To Day 13